ARROW CANYON – MOAPA VALLEY
Most Saturday’s now consist of waking up crack o’ of mid-morn, getting through my cup o’ jo as I power read the newspaper (which translates to reviewing my top 15 websites) and then jumping over to Jim Boone’s legendary birdandhike.com website and spin the adventure roulette and find the hike for the day. Today’s winning hike was Arrow Canyon about one hour north of Las Vegas in the Moapa Valley.
The Arrow Canyon Wilderness is characterized by several striking geologic features. The Arrow Canyon Range frames the western edge, its spectacular cliff face standing several thousand feet high with a distinctive dark gray band of limestone arcing across the length of the range. A wide valley expands across the central portion of the wilderness area, its eastern reaches marked by a series of deep washes, including the nearly vertical sides of Arrow Canyon in the north. Stretching several miles long, Arrow Canyon itself is so deep and narrow that sunlight rarely reaches the bottom in places, with sheer walls 200 to 300 feet high and a mere 18 feet apart at its narrowest. As a slot canyon, Arrow Canyon has the potential for flash floods. Beware of traveling in the canyon if there is any rain in the area.
Southern desert shrub and creosote bush scrub are at home across these varied features, with mesquite and catclaw acacia in the washes and ash trees hiding out in the depths of the canyon. Bighorn sheep take refuge in the mountainous higher elevation portions, with fossil corals, mollusks, brachiopods and other specimens found throughout the region. Arrow Canyon has been identified as a potential traditional cultural property, boasting a high concentration of petroglyphs. The area also has religious significance for the Moapa Band of Paiute Indians.
The Arrow Canyon Access Road is a 2WD high-clearance road when conditions are good. My 2001 Subaru Outback had no problems driving slow and observing pointing boulders and making sure I did not “high-center” the car. Walking from the end of the 2WD sedan-quality section of road adds about 1.5 miles (one way) to the hike. Historically there have been land access issues with the homeowner in the big house at the mouth of the canyon. At one point, the homeowner tried to block public access the the area, but a public road goes around the house to a municipal well. Hikers are free to turnoff from Highway 168, drive through the ranch gate, drive to the municipal well, and continue into the canyon.
Don’t turn off the road or drive up the red-colored gravel driveways to the big house, please drive slowly to reduce dust, and try not to antagonize the home owner who now consider themselves guardians of Arrow Canyon.
Rock climbing in Arrow Canyon varies from vertical to overhanging cave features with grades from 5.8 to hard 5.12, with the majority of 5.11 routes found on the vertical walls and 5.12 routes in two caves. While rock climbing is allowed, installation of permanent fixed anchors is prohibited. It is imperative that all visitors avoid impacts to cultural resources. Potential impacts to the petroglyphs include degradation through physical contact with the elements, bolts, and indirect effects from poorly located campfires and ad hoc shooting ranges. Motorized vehicles, mechanized equipment, and mechanical transport are not permitted in designated wilderness. I happened across the area where a large concentration of petroglyphs were located but refused to take any photos as vandals have added their own contemporary versions of graffiti and the less publicity these disrespectful people receive is best.
I happened across these two climbers about 4 miles into my hike. It turns out the three of us were the only people in this area today on a beautiful Saturday. I believe they told me this climbing wall was called “Swamp Wall or Cave” and they were both successfully doing 5.11+ climbs. Very impressive as my personal best was a 5.6 out at Joshua Tree many moons ago. I asked if they would mind if I grabbed some shots and promised to try and not be a distraction. I grabbed some shots and then knew I needed to get to the turn-around of this hike which is a water dam.
The scant and erratic rainfall through the 1920’s and 1930’s not only made ranching and farming difficult but also complicated Southern Paiute relationships with non-Indian neighbors and states. In 1937, Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built this solid new diversion dam. I did not try and scale the dam as I was solo but afterwards this is what it looks like per Google Earth.
As I headed back I spent more time shooting the rock climbers. Rock climbing seems like the epitome of harmonic relationship between human and Mother Earth. You must become one with the surface in front of you and every hold is important. I observed the rhythmic movements of balancing with the lower body and the upper body. Yes, the hands form the handshake with the rock but the rest of your body is equally part of the relationship. Most rock climbers I have met have full respect for nature and appreciate the delicate balance between usage and conservation. These climbers easily fell into that category. Climb on!
After a perfect weather day, 8 miles of hiking over plenty of river rock, and shooting a couple thousand images, it was time to head home. A successful day filled with nature’s wonderment.
TEXT CREDITS AND REFERENCES: Bird and Hike, BLM, and the book Boundaries Between, The Southern Paiutes, 1775-1995
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